Skirt for Mini Wardrobe

I finished my first item for the patternreview mini-wardrobe contest!  I am happy because I am actually on schedule, halfway through two other items.  I might actually finish!

I used New Look  6789 .  This skirt is a linen/cotton blend.  It’s a nice fabric, it was easy to sew.  I used some handfinishing techniques on this one since it is such a simple pattern.  I did a hand picked zipper ( 1st time ) and hand sewed the hem.

I used machine finishing for the seams though.  I ran a bit short on fabric so I had to take a bit of fullness out of the bias cut skirt.  I just folded it out as a dart at center front.  I think I would like it better a bit fuller.  I guess I  will just have to make this one again in another fabric .  I like the fit of the curved waistband/yoke, it fits my waistline shape well.

*update 4/5/2010: Just a few notes about sewing with bias fabric, both for myself for future reference, and for you other sewers out there.

  • when sewing a bias skirt, sew all center detail first, ie. zipper, then sew side seams.  A puckering zipper is a sign that the  side seams are too tight.  The problem is that bias will stretch over the hips and seem to fit, but if it’s the slightest bit too small the zipper will ripple.  also, side zippers alwys ripple in bias, avoid them. ( if someone knows a fix for this, leave me a comment)
  • handsewing  is a great way to control fabric stretch when inserting a zipper, use a pickstitch, which is a back-stitch with a tiny amount of thread on the right side.  also use basting tape to place the zipper, instead of pins, pins distort the zipper and do not allow it to lay flat
  • stretch all bias seams when sewing them, also stretch while ironing, this takes the ripples out
  • use bias tape for hemming curved hem or circle skirts, stretch it slightly so it hugs the curve when it is turned up, or alternately do a double turned machine baby hem.
  • you can press the stretch out of bias rather than letting it hang before hemming, use your iron and stretch the fabric as you iron along the bias. Press the entire piece this way , do this before you sew, this is a timesaver as well as an assistance in good fitting ( after you do this the fabric won’t stretch to make skirt too narrow after it hangs)  I read somewhere ( one of my sewing books) that all the french fashion houses do this and it really works!
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